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Estimated Period: Circa 1714–1830 (Georgian)
Region of Origin: Western Europe (Likely Iberian / French) Material: Tested Silver (Consistent with period regional alloy standards) Stones: Hand-Cut Lead Glass ("Paste")
Overview
A magnificent and rare survivor of late 18th-century jewelry design, this 15.5-inch festoon-style choker collar is an exceptional textbook example of pre-industrial craftsmanship. Featuring hand-cut paste stones, fully closed backings, and original terminal ribbon loops, this piece perfectly encapsulates the candlelit opulence of the late Georgian era.
Design & Dimensions
Engineered to sit elegantly high against the base of the throat or directly on the collarbone, the necklace follows a beautifully rhythmic, balanced architectural layout:
Total Wearable Length (Metalwork): 15.5 inches
Central Focal Link: Approximately 1” x 1” (serving as a balanced structural anchor)
Central Pendant Drop: Approximately 1.25 inches (excluding the middle focal connector), featuring a stylized, crown-like royal motif over a swinging pendeloque teardrop.
Individual Section Links: Approximately 1 inch each (measured including integrated side bails), featuring scrolling foliage and floral pierced plaque openwork bordering the stone clusters.
Gemological & Structural Findings Under Magnification
A close inspection under a jeweler's loupe reveals a stunning array of authentic material hallmarks unique to 18th-century workshop production:
The Stones: The clear, bright stones are genuine antique lead-glass paste. Rather than the uniform geometry of machine-cut rhinestones, these display the characteristic soft facet edges, slight geometric asymmetries, and varying sizes of an individual, hand-ground lapidary process.
The Foils & Patina: The stones are completely enclosed in solid, closed-back settings lined with thin sheets of polished silver foil to maximize light reflection. True to its advanced age, the foil displays a remarkable, authentic historical patina under magnification, characterized by microscopic foil fracturing and organic, jagged black lines. These lines are the natural result of two centuries of environmental exposure, where the ultra-thin metal wafer has microscopically split and oxidized along the fissures. This beautiful, irregular degradation serves as an un-reproducible signature of antiquity, heavily prized by collectors as definitive proof of a late 18th-century origin.
The Craftsmanship: The individual settings are hand-cast, showing rough, unpolished casting textures deep inside the hidden interior recesses. Conversely, the outer edges of each plaque are beautifully smooth, exhibiting manual file and tool marks where a master artisan meticulously cleaned the borders for wearer comfort.
The Terminals: The chain terminates on both ends with matching, smooth, teardrop-shaped open loops. Entirely devoid of a modern mechanical clasp, these loops were designed to receive a wide silk or velvet ribbon to be tied into a decorative bow at the back of the neck, allowing for completely adjustable wear.
Condition Report
Presented in good antique condition consistent with a 200+ year lifespan. The silver alloy tests positive for silver content. The paste stones retain immense fire and an enchanting, sequential candlelit twinkle. Partial silver foil oxidation is present under magnification, beautifully serving as an extension of age and further indication of age. Note: As with all authentic foiled jewelry, this piece must be kept completely dry and never exposed to liquid cleaners or water.
